Forbidden City

     Somehow I forgot to mention yesterday that before we left Ninh Binh I hung my violin on my chair and it fell and when I unpacked it yesterday part of the frame had snapped off.

Sorry for the lack of contrast

     The people at the front desk said that they'd send it to somebody who could clamp it and make sure the glue dried properly but we got it back tonight with nothing changed.  At least we know where to buy wood glue now, and I'm lucky that nothing really important broke.  

     It gets really hot here and we tried to make an early start but somehow it was like moving through quicksand and we didn't leave until nine.  It was already getting hot out but I dressed in long sleeves and jeans because I'm still trying to figure out what's acceptable and what isn't.  Apparently anything goes, even in temples... but I don't really want to stand out anymore when people already stare or take a picture of my weird pale skin and light hair and western eyes. 

     Luckily most of the traffic was bikes and motorcycles, but still I was freaking out even more than when I crossed the street for the first time here.  There's no time to stop and work out how you will cross the street, or whether you should go quickly now and get in front of that yellow truck or if you should go slowly and wait until the yellow truck has passed.  It's going to seem a little silly wearing a helmet in Olympia after not having one to wear in this, but I look forward to my bike with working brakes, wide handlebars, and a seat high enough that I don't have to peddle bow-legged.  Again with the adrenaline forcing a goofy and exhilarated grin onto my face the first time we turned left (yellow truck incident.  I went in front). 

     Outside the forbidden city there was a man who we left our bikes with before buying tickets.  Through the gates there was a bridge over a pond filled with koi that people were feeding.  They are scary when they want food!  A writhing mass of fish was in one area, some fish being forced completely out of the water on the backs of the others and all with gaping maws.  

     A lot of the forbidden city was destroyed in a fire or in the Tet offensive and is undergoing massive repair work, but some parts are completed or survived mostly intact and are beautiful.  The first building we went in looked complete.  It was the room where the emperor made semi-public appearances, to greet delegates or for the imperial birthday.  A golden and uncomfortable-looking throne was raised on a stoop in the middle of red and gold laquered room.  There were a few pillars spaced around the throne and a gold velvet rope surrounded the seat and some surviving vases.  I couldn't take pictures inside but the outside of the buildings was neat too.
                             
     Around noon we stopped for sodas in the shade and afterwards made our way back to the bikes.  There's supposed to be a vegetarian restaurant called Dong Tam that's run by buddhists and really good but either we had completely misleading directions or it didn't exist.  Instead we found a different veggie restaurant that had some really great food.  I+We might eat there again.

The sleeper bus from Ninh Binh